The call to prayer wakes us at daybreak. Then another mosque chimes in, then another and another. Kaleici is loaded with mosques, all with their loudspeakers turned up full blast.
Our first breakfast in Turkey consists of fresh bread with jam, feta cheese, fresh sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, olives and coffee. Throughout the trip breakfast would be similar. Most places added hard boiled eggs. We came to like our Turkish breakfasts. Servings were generous, the produce usually came from a nearby garden and the coffee was generally pretty good. In fact, after a few days we started to eat only a light snack of fresh fruit at lunch because breakfasts were so hearty.
We spent three nights in Kaleici (Antalya) at the Hotel Urcu. In addition to exploring Kaleici and its beautiful marina/harbor area, we picked up our rental car in Antalya and visited three nearby ruins, Perge, Aspendos and Termessos. Over the course of our drive through western Turkey, we would visit a total of 8 ancient city ruins. Most of them had a similar history. All could trace their roots way back to early Hellenistic (Greek) times, perhaps 700 BC or earlier. In some cases, there is evidence of even earlier habitation. An early milestone for many of these cities was the arrival of Alexander the Great in 334 BC. A couple of hundred years after that, the Roman Empire dominated the area, and from about 100 BC through 300 AD many of these sites became great cities under the Roman mantle. Most of the best preserved ruins are from this Roman era as not too much of the earlier stuff is still around, although we did see a limited amount of Hellenistic stuff in-situ and in museums. The various areas in western Turkey have been conquered by one dominant power or another many times over the past 3,000 years. Some of these conquests resulted in great damage to these sites as cities were sacked, burned and otherwise abused by invading forces. However, some of this stuff is simply so big that it wasn't destroyed. How do you trash chunks of marble that weigh several tons? So in spite of all the abuse, a surprising amount remains to be seen. There has been and continues to be an enormous amount of restoration work at all the sites we visited. Sometimes in is conducted by some University in Austria or somewhere. Most of it these days is done by the Republic of Turkey.
The drill at most of these sites became familiar to us. We would drive up and find the parking lot. Usually someone holding a book of tickets would wander over and collect a parking fee. Most of the larger ruins had an admission booth where we paid another fee to gain entrance. After that, we were on our own to explore. In some cases, particularly in the ruins we visited from our Antalya base, there were perhaps 10 to 25 other people visiting each ruin, all spread out so that often we were alone in a necropolis, bath or other distinct section of an ancient city ruin. There were no fences or apparent restrictions in these places - we had the run of them. Later, as we visited some of the more famous places, most notably Ephesus where cruise ship passengers arrive on shore excursions, more of the ruins structures were fenced off to keep the crowds at bay, and the feel was more touristy. Getting off the beaten path at these higher traffic ruins was not encouraged.
Here are pictures of taken at the three ruins we visited from Antalya. All were within an hours drive of our hotel, although the first time we drove back into town, we had trouble finding our hotel and managed to add some miles by driving around several blocks a bunch of times, all in pretty wild and crazy city traffic.
The first few shots show the ruins at Perge. It was the first ruin we visited and we thought it was pretty neat, although we soon saw some more impressive stuff elsewhere.
|