Yucatan Peninsula, December 2005.
.Ê We flew to Cancun, Mexico, on Alaska Airlines. We rented a 4x2 SUV from Europcar, and drove 5 hours South to Mahahual. We stayed 15 days at Kabahna, rustic cabanas
on the beach.
Our family of 4 stayed in two cabanas at a cost of $38 per day, including meals. Kabahna is 8.6 km. from Mahahual. Cruise ships dock at Mahahual with obnoxious vendors and drunk tourists, but it is quiet at Kabahna.
Much of the shoreline is protected by a reef 200 meters offshore. The snorkeling is wonderful out in front of Kabahna. We saw lobsters, squid, puffers, an eagle ray, among diverse coral like brain, staghorn, purple fan.
It is possible to walk many kilometers along the beach here, watching the pelicans and osprey dive, sandpipers skitter along the sand, and panicked baitfish explode ahead of barracuda.
Most of the area inland is undeveloped brushy swampland. North of Mahahual is a huge reserve area called Sian Ka'an Biosphere. It encompasses 1.3 million acres of mangrove, jungle, swamp, bays and shoreline, with over 300 species of birds and 100 species of mammals.
There is 50 km of pavement heading North from Mahahual, but not much in the way of trails to experience the Jungle. It would be a great bike ride, as the road receives little traffic. Bring plenty of water, though.
I wanted to try for bonefish and permit in Bahia de Espiritu Santo, but didn't make it that far. I think the only efective way to access this huge flat is by a live-aboard catamaran. Along the road we saw raptors, green parrakeets, woodpeckers, toucan, chacalaca, and tons of butterflies.The coast is partly rocky but also lot of sand.
The hurricanes last fall didn't do much damage, but left piles of trash on the beaches.
Our two teenage sons enjoyed boogie boarding at km 16 South of Mahahual where the reef has a gap. We had to bring inflatable boogie boards, as they were not available in
Mahahual.
Bucanero del Caribe has the only permit in Mahahual to access el Banco del Chinchorro, a protected atoll 40 km offshore. We went there to scuba dive with Arturo Barbosa on the "Perla Negra."
This, the largest coral atoll in the Northern hemisphere stretches 45 by 10 km. The pristine coral and sponges are unmatched by sites in Belize or Roatan. It sort of lacke in fish, but has plenty of potential for rare sightings.
There are many wrecks along the East side, but we didn't dive any. We visited Cayo Centrale, which has fishing settlements and a biological station. We saw a crocodile, and piles of Conch shells. I was told that sportfishing is not allowed, but that you can catch bonefish
on a handline!
The wind blew on all but 2 days that we were there. That is good for windsurfers and boogie boarding, but not fishing or Scuba. Trips to Chinchorro go only if seas are calm. I was told that trolling is not really worth it in December. Reef fishing is OK though.
We drove South to Xcalak one day. It is a nice village, not bastardized by cruise ships. A narrow road leads to La Aguada on La Bahia de Chetumal. This is a wonderful place to access some flats fishing if you can haul in a kayak or other craft. There is a barge dock where the road ends, but doesn't appear to get much use.
When we left Kabahna, we drove a few hours North to a Mayan ruin called Chichen Itza. It gets lots of visitors, but is certainly worthwhile. We also Went to Cenote Xkeken near Dzitnup. It was an interesting experience. Huge stalactites extend down into the water. This cenote had mostly locals swimming there. Across the road,(right side) is another cenote with a crush of tourist vans and long
line to enter.
Health concerns:
Ê
Our beds were covered by mosquito net. We were bothered by sand fleas, Chichitzas, occasionally. That is the downside of calm weather. Mosquitoes are an issue if you spend time inland birdwatching.
Sunburn remains the greatest threat to unwary tourists.
TROPICAL EQUIPMENT LIST
Pack or duffel
STOUT SANDALS
LONG SLEEVE SHIRT(quick drying material like Coolmax.)
LONG PANTS(light, quick dry.)
Waterproof Jacket
Hat that covers your ears from sun
bandanna, to cover head or neck
Light Gloves
First Aid Kit
Compass
Moleskin or Second Skin
chapstik
sunblock
Matches in Waterproof Container
2 Plastic Garbage Bags & 2 One-Gallon Ziplock Bags
Pocket Knife
Toilet Paper
Flashlight or Headlamp (with spare Batteries)
Toothbrush,
Camera
Binoculars
Sunglasses
snorkel, mask, fins
Optional:
wetsuit
snake gaiters
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